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Siena

Highlights

Splendid Siena

Yet another of Italy's UNESCO World Heritage Sites, this medieval city is built around the fan shaped Piazza del Campo. The campo is presided over by the Palazzo Pubblico (the city hall) and the Torre del Mangia, the 14th century tower that offers sweeping views of the surrounding countryside from its top. The city's brick buildings have been very well preserved, retaining their character even through multiple renovations done over the centuries. The city is home to the first bank in Europe, dating from 1472, and one of the first hospitals (Santa Maria della Scala) that was dedicated to caring for abandoned children, the sick, the poor, and pilgrims. Today, the complex houses several museums. According to our local guide, Anna Lisa, no architects worked on any of the buildings in Siena, so the grand gothic Duomo is even that much more impressive. It is built in black and white stripes, the symbolic colors of the city.

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We were very lucky to become honorary members of the Contrada Selva (Forest) for an evening. Siena has 17 contrades, or neighborhoods, that are named after an animal or symbol. Dating from the Middle Ages, they were originally set up to help supply the military as it fought to defend its independence from Florence. Today, they have become areas of localized patriotism, held together by the civic pride of the lifetime residents. This is most evident during the Palio, a crazy 90 second bareback horse race around the Piazza del Campo, held twice a year since medieval times. Bucket list: attend the Palio some day!

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The Siena Duomo is filed with treasures by Pisano, Donatello, and Michelangelo, and is as impressive inside as out. It was supposed to be enlarged in the 14th century, but work was stopped during the Black Plague in 1348 and never restarted. A wall is all that remains of the area that was supposed to be closed in. Mosaics telling various stories are spread around the floors. One of the most impressive treasures in the Duomo is the Piccolomini Library, with its colorful frescoes depicting 10 scenes from different stages in the life of Pope Pius II. The illuminated manuscripts that Pius II collected are amazingly well preserved in glass cases along the walls.

  • Stroll through the narrow cobblestone streets, looking for signs identifying each contrade

  • Climb the Torre del Mangia for amazing views of the surrounding countryside

  • Sit on the sloping bricks of the Piazza del Campo after dinner and enjoy some gelato

  • Visit the Duomo and don't miss the Piccolomini Library inside

  • Walk through the Basilica di San Domenico and The Sanctuary of Saint Catherine

Lesson #10: 

Don't fill up on the primo course

Traditional Italian meals feature several courses, including the antipasto (small starters), primo (first course, usually a pasta), secondo (main course, usually a meat dish), followed by dolce (sweets), caffe/espresso, and finally a digestive (a shot of strong alcohol such as grappa or limoncello).  We’re more accustomed to two, not three, courses, so don’t fill up on that primo course, or you won’t have room for the rest!

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